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Contract Acknowledgement Agreement Genetic Health Warranty & Sales Contract Acknowledgement Agreement We provide a One year limited Warranty until the puppy is one year of age. This warranty covers some fatal and life altering congenital diseases. This includes heart, pancreas, spine and liver problems of a severe, life threatening or fatal nature. We do NOT pay any vet bills for your puppy after they leave our care at 8 weeks. If your puppy is diagnosed with something that is severe and/or fatal within the first year of life, we require proof from a licensed veterinarian, a second opinion must also be obtained from a licensed veterinarian. If proof is obtained from two licensed veterinarians, then we will give you the option of returning him/her with a partial refund (total cost minus the non-refundable deposit unless Whimsy Doodles agrees to a complete refund.) OR you could also choose a replacement puppy of equal value (must be same breed and color). A replacement puppy may not be immediately available. If this is the case, we will place your name in the Reserved list for the next liter. This is NOT the complete contract. This is a Contract Acknowledgement Agreement. The buyer does need to sign this form to acknowledge that they have read the terms and agree to them. We will email the buyer a copy of the Contract to be signed after the deposit is received. ​The buyer can sign this and the emailed copy on the same days they can read the full terms. We work hard to ensure every puppy goes home healthy. We deworm them multiple times before they leave our care and property. Each puppy is also preventatively treated for Coccidia. All of our Puppies will be up to date on vaccinations before they go. It is your responsibility to be sure to continue all other vaccines that your veterinarian recommends. This is required in order to validate the Health Warranty.In order to validate our healthy warranty: We ask that your puppy/dog see a vet for a basic puppy exam within the first 3 days of leaving our home and going to your home. You will need to set up a vaccination plan and follow through with all needed vaccinations. The buyer agrees to provide veterinary care for this puppy for the entirety of its life, including annual heart worm preventatives (heart worm tests as needed) and to keep core vaccinations current (or all that a licensed veterinarian would recommend appropriate for where you and your puppy reside). Buyer agrees to the responsibility of caring for the puppy daily. This is to include making sure he/she is kept groomed regularly (matts need to kept under control to prevent issues/damage to the dogs skin), fed a good quality dog kibble, watered on a daily basis, kept inside in a clean and safe environment, and is given daily exercise, appropriate for his/her body type.Your puppy will come with a Microchip Identification implant. The buyer agrees to register the microchip in their name within 14 day of taking home their puppy. Information on how to register the chip will be provided in your puppy’s binder. There may be a small one-time fee for registering the chip with the chip company. Your Signature Clear Submit

Dams & Sires We take the upmost pride in all of our dogs. They are all raised in our home with love. All of our parents have been health tested. Results of each parent will be listed next to their picture on this page. Our dogs temperaments are just as important to us. All of our dogs are gentle, friendly, outgoing, good with children, have a willingness to please, train easily and are healthy. Dams Sires Luna Luna is a F1B Mini Bernedoodle. She is a Blue Merle Parti. Luna is a very sweet, calm, intelligent, eager to please girl who absolutely loves people. She was a dream to train & Grooms easily. This girl brings a smile to everyone who meets her. Luna's Testing Expresses Merle- M*m GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- Clear Ollivander Ollivander is an AKC registred Standard Poodle. He is a White & Brown Parti. Ollie is on the small side for a standard Poodle.He is extremely smart, gentle natured and is a dream to train & groom. Ollie is an old soul for sure. Ollivander's Testing No Merle Gene- mm *GM2 Gangliosidosis (HEXB, Poodle Variant)- Clear *Intervertebral Disc Disease (Type I) (FGF4 retrogene - CFA12)- Clear *Neonatal Encephalopathy with Seizures, NEWS (ATF2)- Clear *Osteochondrodysplasia (SLC13A1, Poodle Variant) *Progressive Retinal Atrophy, prcd (PRCD Exon 1) *Von Willebrand Disease Type I, Type I vWD (VWF)- Clear *Degenerative Myelopathy, DM (SOD1A)- carrier ​ Sizes We expect puppies from Luna and Ollivander to be between 30-55 pounds. These will be F1bb mini/moyen Bernedoodles. This mean they will be low to non-shedding. **PLEASE NOTE! All puppies can inherit genetics from multiple generations which includes genetics from the Bernese Mountain Dog and a poodle. For this reason, we can not guarantee size or coat quality. Your dog's diet and exercise can also have a big effect on their weight & health. Future liters will be announced here We will announce the next planned liter as soon as we plan them. We will include expected whelping dates and other needed info.

Pricing Our puppies are competitively priced. We offer a quality, healthy puppy for less than other puppies offered of similiar quality. The prices of each puppy may be different based on colors that are more rare or harder to produce. We reserve the right to Increase or Decrease these prices.(this will always be done before the sale of a puppy) Merles & Tri-Color Merles $2,200 Tri-Colors, Phantoms, Sables $2,000 All Other Colors $1,800

Things to Do & to Avoid when first bringing your new Puppy Home. ​ In order to protect your growing puppy's delicate health, there are many precautions you can and should take starting from the moment you have your puppy in your arms. As the breeder, Whimsy Doodles has been taking many of these precautions from the moment these puppies were born. Diseases such as Giardia and Parvo can be EASY to contract and hard to get rid of. These viral diseases can live on surfaces for 5-6 months . Some of these diseases can also be fatal if not treated early. Here are some things you can do to protect your puppy from these diseases: ​ 1. Don't take the puppy out to public places such as pet stores, other stores or parks that allow dogs or put them in public grassy spots until after they have had ALL of their vaccinations. 2. Do not let people handle your puppy until 10 days after their final vaccines, usually around 16 wks.This is because people can carry these viral diseases on their clothing (and shoes). You never know if someone has had an ill pet or been in contact unknowingly with another animal who is carrying these diseases. It is also to protect you and your puppy from people who may get overly upset about being scratched or nipped by a very young puppy. 3. Do NOT buy toys from a pet store that lets dogs/puppies come in and try toys out. This is a HUGE risk of contracting Parvo. I have witnessed people allowing their dogs to lick and chew on toys and then throw them back on the shelf for someone else to buy. I always recommend washing any toy you purchase . 4. We keep our puppies on a schedule when it comes to feedings.Its recommended not to change this schedule much for the first 2 weeks. 5. Do NOT plan to pickup your puppy during a very busy time. Instead, it's highly recommended to pickup your puppy at a time when you have or can take a few days off work to let the puppy acclimate. It's important that they have someone home with them. 6. Remember that your contract requires a Vet checkup within 72 hrs after pickup. Its highly recommended to schedule this is advance of your puppy coming home. 7. The first three weeks are the hardest for your new puppy. It's very important to Remember the 3*3*3 Rules for puppies. (See Graphic below.) Just remember to give them time. Giving up and trying to rehome them (contract states Breeder is to be contacted first) is actually very scary and bad for the puppy. ​ ​ 8. Remember that jumping is really bad for a growing dogs joints and development. Practice the no jumping rule: no stairs, no jumping off anything including beds, decks, porches, in or out of cars for at least the year. 9. Do not let smaller children carry the puppy around or anyone that may be under the influence. So many bad things can happen with either scenario. If your child wants to hold the puppy, have them sit down to do so and stand near them at all times. This is also to protect your child. ​ 10. Do not allow your puppy on furniture until it can get on and off the furniture on its own. A simple fall like this on the floor can do immeasurable damage. Puppy Preperation List: These are items you should purchase in advance and wash before use •10-14 inch flat collar, or appropriate size for your puppy's neck. (typically people start with a small size and move up as needed.) •6ft lead (no flexi lead leashes ever.) •15ft long line lead for training (can be found on Chewy & Amazon) •2 stainless steel puppy bowls (no elevated food bowls). Stainless Steel helps to keep white facial hair on dog's white. Its also healthier than plastic. •Training Treats (anything soft, small & healthy) •48 inch crate (no collars ever on while crated) •Puppy toys (no stuffed toys or anything they can tear apart and swallow except when supervised) • Kong brand chew toys. •Puppy Shampoo & Conditioner •Nail clippers.You can buy these online on Chewy or on Amazon. •Dog bed. Make sure to get one that is washable. •Baby gate or Indoor fencing (if needed). ​ ​ • Bladder Bites by Zesty Paws. (To help prevent UTI’s) ​ Quick Vet Tips Do’s and Don’t’s: • 1st vet appointment- most often they want you to take a fresh stool sample. This is normal as your vet will want to test for parasites. • 1st vet appointment- DO NOT let your puppies feet touch the ground at the vet. The vet is a dirty place and you don’t know what potentially sick animal just walked in before your puppy who is not fully vaccinated. •Ask for either Heartguard chewables or Interceptor Plus. ***It is NOT recommended to use the all in one Heartworm, Flea/Tick/Parasite med to your puppy. This is prescribed by a vet but has killed puppies before •Do talk to your vet about the best practice for adding additional vaccinations such as Leptospirosis or Lyme disease. The most important thing, is to do the core vaccinations. (Parvo, Distemper, Adeno virus, Parainfluenza..core puppy vaccinations). •NO all-in-one pills for heartworm, intestinal parasites and flea/tick. These have sadly taken many dogs lives. Of course your puppy/dog needs all of these preventatives, however it is best to be given not in an all in one pill. Many of these all-in-one pills cause serious side effects. •There are natural repellents to help prevent or get rid of fleas and ticks, aside from medications. I highly recommend Wondercide Flea & Tick. You can purchase it on Amazon. •It is highly recommended to NOT spay/neuter your dog until they are adults. Some Vets will push for spay/neuter at 6 months of age. Simply let them know that you will not be spaying/neutering until they have reached maturity and the growth plates have closed. This is usually 12 months of age. For large breed dogs such as the Bernese Mountain Dog, this can be 18-20 months old.

Defining Colors ​ Its important to start with the basic sold colors of a dog. This Is the B locus. All dogs have a base coat of either Black or Chocolate (Brown). You can typically determine by the eye if they are Black or Chocolate based on the pigment of their nose. Genetically testing your dog is always best to determine proper genetics. If there are no other genes in the genetic makeup of the Black or Chocolate dog, you will see a solid Black or Chocolate dog. Black is a dominant color gene, so it requires only one copy of the Black gene to give you Black. Chocolate is recessive and requires two copies of the gene and therefore both parents need to carry Chocolate. The gene that determines Black or Chocolate is the B locus. B/B or B/b = Black (remember that dominant colors are capitol letters) and b/b = Chocolate (Brown). The colors white, cream, apricot and red are all produced by the same gene. This is the E Locus. It is a recessive gene so you need two copies of this gene for it to show in their coat. These dogs can have either Black or Chocolate pigmentation. This gene gives a range of shades within it, going from white to red. So if I breed a white to a red, I can get a range of colors in between. (It is also important to note, that the K locus and A locus will not be expressed if a puppy is genetically e/e. Remember that lower case is recessive.) E/E or E/e = No White, Cream, Apricot or Red and e/e = White, Cream, Apricot or Red. ​ When it comes to dogs, sometimes colors and patterns can be breed specific. For example, the harlequin gene in most commonly found in a Great Dane. This is a gene whose color pattern results in black patches of color on a white base. Its important to understand that all harlequin coated dogs carry one copy of the merle gene. However dogs without the Merle gene or color pattern can carry the gene for harlequin. The same can be said for a brindle gene. It is not found in every breed and certainly not every doodle. ​ Phantom Brindle and Sable color is the result of two genes working together. The first gene is the K locus. There is a dominant gene, Kb, and a recessive gene, Ky. Kb is a blocking gene that does not allow the expression of the A locus. A locus is the second gene needed to produce phantoms/sables. Therefore if you have even one Kb gene in a line, the A locus can not be expressed at all. This holds no matter what the genes are on that locus. The Brindle gene is believed to be found on the K locus and only needs one copy to be expressed. Kb/Kb, Kb/Kbr or Kb/Ky = No expression on A locus. If you end up with Kbr/Kbr or Kbr/Ky = Brindle Expressed (not all genetic testing companies test specifically for this and it can be controversial). Ky/Ky = Expression of A locus allowed. ​ The coat colors that show on a Solid Black and Chocolate (brown) are determined by the A locus. This tiered system is as follows: Ay/Ay = Sable, Ay/At = Sable Phantom, At/At or At/a= Phantom and last a/a = Solid Colored. ​ Parti The S locus controls the placement of the white in a dog. It also controls how much white is in a dogs coat. We call this Parti. It is white markings on any other color already noted above. Parti is a recessive gene. This is a color that you wont typically see in F1 generations. However you can get parti’s in F1b or above generations. Remember that Solid colors are dominant and parti colors are recessive. S/S or S/sp = Solid Color and sp/sp = Parti Color. The S Locus also has untestable sub-loci, so some aspects of how the S Locus affects color are still unclear, perhaps even unknown. As a general rule however, dogs with SS will be solid or may have abstract patterns (areas of white on the face, chest & paws). This Abstract gene can be seen often in F1 Bernedoodles. Ssp will typically have 50% or less white such as abstract and tuxedo patterns. Last, spsp will have 50% or more white. These are typically considered "parti". As a general rule, parti is more than 50% white and will often have a broken color pattern down the back. There are however, exceptions to this. Abstract colors are often a result of a dog carrying one parti gene. Its important to remember that not all abstract carry parti and not all parti carriers have abstract markings. ​ The D locus in dogs is a dilute gene. Silvers are thought to be caused by the D locus and that they are a recessive gene. This can be controversial also. A dd locus will result in a modification of the base color of the dog the D locus has. This turning a black dog silver, etc. There are varying degrees of sliver. The D gene will produce blues, charcoals and lilacs. ​ Merle Now that we have discussed most other colors, we can now talk about the Merle pattern on a dog. The merle gene is extremely complex and just as controversial. Merle is a coat pattern with varying shades of blue/black or brown/red. It comes from the Allele M. In order to get a mere allele you need a dominant and recessive trait to produce this pattern. This is the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). The merle (M) allele is an incomplete-dominant (sometimes called a semi-dominant gene as well) gene, meaning it only takes one copy of the M allele to produce a merle. This mean that every merle dog has one copy of the merle allele (M) and one copy of the non-merle allele (m). In other words, every merle dog has an Mm genotype and every non-merle dog has an mm genotype. The term incomplete dominant means that one allele does not completely dominate another. When it comes to the merle gene, depending on which two alleles are inherited by each puppy, it can create an intermediate expression or a completely distinct pattern. There are now 4 Merle Scales. I have listed them below. Each scale rate the length of these Alleles differently. Depending on the scale used, there are either two, four or six different Alleles for M. Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M, Mh. Each Allele has a numeric value to gauge the level of pattern shown on the coat. This is the length of the Allele. The two distinct differences between the different scales is that the first 3 when compared with the “langevin et al” scale, the 4th is based on phenotype AND breeding results. The breeding results include HOMOZYGOUS result. The first 3 scales have only included heterozygous dogs in their research. m Non-Merle Wild Type Mc Cryptic Merle 200 - 230 bp Mc+ Cryptic Merle + 231 - 246 bp Ma Atypical Merle 247 - 254 bp Ma+ Atypical Merle + 255 - 264 bp M Merle 265 - 268 bp Mh Harlequin Merle 269 - 280 bp ​ #1 - scale includes only 2 alleles, Mc and M, from a paper published in 2015, "Milushova et al". The length of the two alleles was set using the old testing method and based on phenotype. Dogs 252 bp and below were most likely to express no Merle pattern. Those 253 and above either had a noticeable Merle pattern or where starting to show signs of an unusual coat shading or faint pattern. #2 - scale as set by Paw Print Genetics "Ballif et al" including 4 alleles, Mc, Ma, M and Mh based on phenotype, with Ma starting at 247 bp which was a number already set by Biofocus with the help of Dr. Helena Synková in 2011. This leaves the Mc extending as far as 246 bp. #3 - scale from the "Murphy et al" (Dr Clark) paper including 4 alleles with Md (equivalent to Ma) starting at the same number as scale #1's M allele of 253 bp based on phenotype. This leaves a gap between Mc and Ma with Mc possibly extending to 252 bp. M and Mh overlap. NOTE - this paper uses T length numbers, I have converted them to base pairs for easier comparison. #4 - scale as defined by "langevin et al" with 6 alleles - Mc, Mc+, Ma, Ma+, M and Mh ​ Here is the different Merle Allele length scales. ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ These are the Merle Phenotypes: m/Mc No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Mc No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a slight brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Mc+ No Merle pattern, no change to coat color or pigment shading. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Mc+ No Merle pattern, may express as no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, there may be a slight change to coat color – pigment may express as faded or off-color or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, especially for long coated breeds. No eye color change. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. May express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma No Merle pattern, may express with no change to coat color or pigment shading. Alternatively, may show a diluted coat expression even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b or express with a lighter undercoat especially on longer haired breeds. Lighter shaded areas may be visible on ears, neck, under tail and tail area. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Ma/Ma Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. m/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/Ma+ Merle pattern is muted, not crisp and clear or as well defined as some breed standards may require, most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. Alternatively, some dogs may express with no Merle pattern, no dilution and no change to coat color or pigment shading. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/Ma+ Often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b, more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. As the base pairs of Ma+ progress closer to M, a more noticeable Tweed patterning may be present, larger areas of solid pigment may show. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white as the base pair numbers of Ma+ progress closer to M. Ma+/Ma+ Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Tweed patterning may be present. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment may be deleted to white. m/M Classic Merle pattern – random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. No pigment is deleted to white. Mc+/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation. Tweed patterning may express. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment may be deleted to white. Ma/M Often referred to as “Patchwork” with large areas of solid pigment mixed with areas of more diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of darker spotting. Tweed patterning often expressed. Blue eyes can be expressed. Some pigment often deleted to white. Ma+/M Most often diluted in color even when d/d is not present and/or a brownish hue may express that is not related to b/b. More diluted background shading with smaller and fewer areas of spotting. Extended white out of normal Irish Spotting pattern – up legs, past shoulders, white head often noted (seemingly not related to the “white-head” gene). Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. M/M Random areas of the coat are diluted to a lighter pigment, creating a combination of areas consisting of a diluted color mixed with areas of full pigmentation most often mixed with varying amounts of white. Blue eyes can be expressed. Pigment can be deleted to white. Mh The Mh allele has a broad range of phenotypes with 2 expressions that are very recognizable. #1 - “Minimal Merle” - a large percentage of the body features solid colored pigment with only small random areas of Merle patterning. Individuals may also express extended white out of the normal area of the typical Irish Spotting pattern – this may include a large white collar, white up legs past the elbow, white past shoulders extending onto withers and white on the belly extending up the side. This extended white is sometimes associated with S/sp - (Piebald Carrier), however many m/Mh dogs with this type of white pattern have tested as S/S. #2 - The more classic pattern that is often referred to as “Herding Harlequin” - Random diluted areas of Merle pigment are deleted to white, leaving solid patched areas that may be Tweed patterned including different shades. Some Merle areas may remain. The extended white patterning mentioned in description #1 may be present but is less noticeable due to the deleted white areas on the body. #3 - Some dogs may express more as m/M, yet are still able to produce offspring with a phenotype as described above in example #1 and #2 - these offspring have inherited the same length of base pairs as the parent and yet express in either of the 3 ways presented here. Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, M/Mh and Mh/Mh allelic combinations are phenotypically indistinguishable and present one homogenous phenotypic group. Of note, M/Mh and Mh/Mh may express with a greater percentage of white over the body. * Scale1. (Murphy Et Al) Base pair ranges that correspond to the four varieties of the merle phenotype: Note, there are gaps between cryptic/dilute and dilute/standard cryptic (212 - 242 bp), dilute (253 - 261 bp), standard (265 - 273 bp), and harlequin (268 - 292 bp).” * Scale 2. (Paw Print Genetics)200 – 246 Cryptic - Most cases are non-merle but in rare cases may have very small merle patch(es) or subtle color anomalies. 247 – 264 Atypical - Most cases show a significant shift from normal coat color often giving a diluted color, show reddish undertones, or have an otherwise atypical merle appearance. 265 – 269 Classic - Most cases show classic merle with a significant amount of merle color and pattering, although some cases may only show a minimal amount of merle. 270 – 280 Harlequin Most cases display patches of multiple shades of the same or different colors without white (tweed) or with white (harlequin) and are often referred to as patchwork. Their scale of “Cryptic” 200 - 246 bp includes both our Mc and Mc+ alleles, which can express different phenotypes when homozygous and also when inherited with different length alleles. The Mc allele as set with Vemodia at 230 bp will not delete pigment to white when combined with M. However when Mc+ is combined with M there is the possibility of pigment being deleted to white in the Merle pattern which some breed standards do not allow and could be a concern for impairments. Two Important distinctions comparing PPG to Langevin here are m/Ma does not create a Merle pattern whereas m/Ma+ can. Ma/Ma will not create white in the Merle pattern whereas Ma+/Ma+ can delete pigment to white. There can also be anomalies when it comes to genetics. Sometimes small area of that presents on a puppy can be a pigmentation and in fact is not minimal merle. This is caused by the Mc allele. This phenotype is commonly seen in breeds where "Whitehead" is common. Double Merles …. When a merle is bred to another merle, you get two merle alleles (MM). This is called a double merles (or double-dapples). What most don’t know, is that a double merle doesn’t look like a merle. They usually have a lot of white on their coat or can be almost pure white. The fully pigmented splotches are much smaller and the background color is much whiter. Is it possible to breed a Merle to a Merle. The long answer is Yes. IF you know what you are doing and do it correctly. the combination of Ma/Ma can not delete pigment to white so no risk of hearing or vision impairments. There is No deletion of pigment from Ma/Ma But a Possible pigment deletion with Ma+/Ma+. Most Breeders practice the NO breeding merle to merle. This is the safest route for most breeders who do not fully understand all there is to the merle genetics. Breeding a merle to merle if to done with the incorrect dogs who carry certain merle alleles can result in the dog having hearing loss in one or both ears. Having even a single M allele actually increases the chance of being deaf. However, the chance of an Mm merle (one parent is a merle and the other one is non merle) being bilaterally deaf is still less than 1%. The presence of two M genes, however, significantly increases the chance of deafness in the dog. Double-merle dogs also often have microphthalmia. This is a condition in which the eyes are abnormally small (sometimes even being barely there) and often nonfunctional. Essentially they are blind. They may also have abnormal pupils. It isn’t fully understood why this happens with the merle gene. Scientists believe that it's possibly due to the fact that the merle mutation affects melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin pigment. Melanocytes are found not only in the skin but in the eye and inner ear. They are also found in the bones and heart.which combinations of two Merle alleles can delete pigment to white and therefore come with the risk of hearing and/or vision impairments? Out of the 28 possible Merle allele combinations there are 14 that have the ability to delete pigment to white. This means that 14 combinations of the merle alleles from mating a merle to merl can result in a double merle with significant health issues. Mc+/Ma+, Ma/Ma+, Ma+/Ma+ Mc+/M, Ma/M, Ma+/M, M/M, m/Mh, Mc/Mh, Mc+/Mh, Ma/Mh, Ma+/Mh, M/Mh, Mh/Mh Note - the Mh allele can delete pigment even as heterozygous.

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How Much to Feed Most vets and breeders agree puppies can be moved to adult foods after 12 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and current physical development. Several factors will play into the amount of food you feed your puppy. This includes the dogs age, current weight, anticipated adult weight, her breed, the environment she’s in (including the climate), and activity level. Puppies eat much more for their weight than adult dogs, and young puppies actually eat quite a bit more than older puppies. Young puppies should be fed three times a day, whereas older puppies often do well with twice- daily feedings. The feeding guidelines on the back of a dog food bag can give you some guidelines on portions to feed, but remember those are only general guidelines. There's no one-size-fits-all amount that every puppy should be fed. It can also change depending on what type of food you choose. Raw-fed puppies need a larger volume of food than kibble-fed puppies, because raw food contains less fat and calories per ounce. Another common feeding guideline is to allow your pup to eat at her own pace for about 10-15 minutes three times a day. Monitor your puppy’s feeding time closely and possibly separate her from other dogs to avoid the older dogs taking her food. We highly recommend to start desensitizing or training away food aggression while feeding your puppy. This should begin the first week you bring your puppy home. It is something that an adult to should do. Simply hand feed your puppy a couple of kibble pieces. Then place your hand in the food bowl while your puppy is eating as well as touching the outside of the bowl and near the food. Always positively reward the puppy for good behavior. We do suggest that you do NOT just reach into the bowl and take the food away. ​ We highly recommend feeding your puppy soaked kibble until at least 12 weeks of age. Why do we recommend this? For starters, Puppies do not chew their food very well. Add that to the fact that puppies have a lot more mucus in their mouths and throats than an adult dog. This makes it harder for them to properly swallow. This means they have a much higher risk of choking. Soaking kibble is also something that greatly reduces the risk of bloat in dogs. Many breeders and dog owners actually feed soaked kibble throughout their dog's lifetime for this reason. Another benefit to soaking kibble is it reduces risk of UTI 's. This is because puppies are constantly getting lots of water. To soak kibble , simply place the kibble in the dog bowl and add warm or cold water. I always fill to just above the food. Then let it sit for about 20-30 minutes or until it isn’t soupy. Time may depend on the humidity in your home. ​ Remember, there is no one size fits all plan for every puppy. So you should discuss your own puppy’s caloric needs with your vet. ​

Bernedoodle Coats Generations, & Colors When it comes time to pick out our new puppies, it’s always exciting to choose our favorite colors and patterns. There is such a wide variety that it can be almost overwhelming. So what are they all? Well, coat colors very much come into play with specific genes that dogs carry and what generation your puppy is effects this as well. Understanding Furnishings & Curl It important to understand the role that furnishings play in a doodles coat. Furnishing genes determine the type and look of the coat as well as wether or not it is a shedding coat or not. Bernese Mountain Dogs carry zero furnishing genes, have no beard and have both a top and undercoat. Poodles carry two furnishing genes. They have beards (most people shave a poodles face when it is groomed) and endlessly growing hair. It takes two of these genes to create the non shedding coat in a dog. Furnishing genes are dominant (also called an allele), so it takes just one copy of this gene to present long hair on the face in a mixed breed puppy. So if a Bernedoodle inherits only one furnishing gene, it will look like a doodle but can still shed like Bernese Mountain Dog. Here, The furnishings gene masks the expression of the recessive unfurnished gene that a lot of doodles still carry in their genome. In order to create the non shedding coat, we then have to breed back in the second furnishing gene. There are three identified furnishings alleles: Strong Furnishings (F), Weak Furnishings (Fw) and unfurnished (f, also known as IC) - dominant in this order. Dogs coats with weak to no furnishings have also been called improper coats. Another way to think of this is the more FLOOFY your dog is all over, the more non shedding they likely are. Keep in mind that ALL dogs can shed some hair. The myth that the curlier any dogs coat is, the less it will shed is simply not true. For example a curly coated retriever sheds horribly. Rather this is determined by genetics. The cure one is an incomplete dominant gene. A dog that is +/+ for curl is a curly dog like a Poodle. A dog that is -/- for curl has a straight coat like the BMD. A dog that has both + and - can express a wide variety of curly to straight. This is because the curl gene is incomplete dominant which allows there straight gene to control the amount of curl. The curl genes inherited by each puppy and each generation of doodle contributes to the type of coat each puppy inherits. Bernese Mountain Dogs can carry one curl gene, giving them a slight wave to their fur, whereas Poodles carry two curl genes. All F1s will inherit a total of one copy of the curl gene allowing their coats to be wavy in general. In puppies of deeper generations who inherit two curl genes, they will exhibit a coat similar to a Poodle’s coat. For those puppies who inherit no curl genes, their coats will be straight to slightly wavy. On the flip side of this, a doodle with tight or strong curl coats are harder to maintain because their coats are much harder to keep from matting. Often those with very curly coated dogs will groom their hair shorter to help alleviate this. Shedding Gene Last, let's talk about the shedding gene. This area of genes is identified as the Shedding Locus. The shedding Locus has two known alleles: SD (+, shedding) and sd (-, non-shedding), dominant in that order. A dog that is +/+ will shed. Bernese Mountain Dogs are +/+ shedding dogs. Dogs that are -/- for shedding will not shed (or very low shed). Poodles are -/- for shedding (or should be). The shedding alleles (+/-) have a similar relationship with each other as the curl alleles. The dominant SD allele (+) is an incomplete dominant, so it will allow the recessive non-shedding allele to take over so to speak. So a dog that has a genome of +/- will likely shed, but how much will depend on the furnishing genes present as the overall quality of the coat. Notice that curl does not factor a large amount into a shedding coat. Where as all the genes we discussed here factor into a dogs coat, the shedding factor has much more to do with the furnishing and shedding gene. So putting these things together, in order to get a non shedding (or low shedding) puppy, we need to breed parents that are homozygous negative for shedding and homozygous for Furnishings (FF). This virtually non-shedding dog would be FF, sd/sd (or -/-) on their respective loci. These genes can be inherited in any combination in a single puppy. Puppies inheriting two furnishing genes will likely be non-shedding. Puppies inheriting one furnishing gene will have reduced shedding most likely equal to an F1 Bernedoodle. Those inheriting no furnishing genes will have coats very similar to a Bernese Mountain Dog (a smooth face and heavy shedding.) All three coat types are possible in an F2 generation as well – straight, wavy, or curly. Bernedoodle Generations Now that you understand how the genetics of a dog play into its coat, let's talk about the generations of a dog. A doodles generation factors into what genes it can or can not inherit. An F1 Bernedoodle is a first generation. This means that a Bernese Mountain Dog was bred with a Standard Poodle. Most first generation Bernedoodles will come in a tri-color, making them look much like the Bernese Mountain Dog, or they will come in black and white. Sometimes you will see a phantom tri-color phantom or even a brindle pattern. Their coat can be straight or wavy as their genetics can take after either parent. This means that they can inherit hair that continues to grow (furnished) or fur that continually sheds (unfurnished). Dogs that have hair that continuously grows will need constant grooming. For anyone with allergies, it is not recommended to get a first generation doodle. An F1b is F1 Bernedoodle that has been bred back to a poodle. This generation typically has the wavy or curly coat. It is also more likely to be hypoallergenic. However you can still end up with a pup here and there who doesn’t have the non (or low) shedding coat meaning its genetics took more after the Bernese in its line. Second generations are typically highly sought after for the non (or low) shedding coats and atypical coat colors. An F1bb is a F1b Bernedoodle that has been bred back to a poodle. These dogs are 50% likely to inherit two furnishing genes and possibly two curl genes. This means they are more likely to have a wavy/curly & non (to low) shedding coat. These are typically highly sought after for uncommon coat colors and the hypoallergenic aspect. This is a great generation for allergy sufferers. Multi Generational Doodles are any generation F2 and beyond. A multi-gen is any doodle that has been bred by two doodles. Most of these generations are much harder to predict furnishings and shedding genes. An F2 is a second generation (Multi generation) Bernedoodle. This means that two F1 generation Bernedoodles have been bred together. It can also be a breeding between and F1 and an F1b. This makes the coat type and hypoallergenic factor hard to predict. The genetics of these dogs can take after either parent or grandparents, meaning the may not have the wavy/curly hair and they may shed. Each puppy from an F2 liter has equal chances of inheriting zero, one, or two furnishing genes as well as zero, one, or two curl genes.These genes can be inherited in any combination in a single puppy. Puppies inheriting two furnishing genes are usually non-shedding. An F2b is a multigeneration Bernedoodle that has beeb bred back to a Poodle or bred back to a Bernese Mountain Dog. When bred back to a poodle, the coat type on this generation is likely to be more wavy/curly and low to non shedding then an F2 generation. If bred back to a Bernese Mountain Dog, the coat is more likely to be unfurnished and shed. However this generation can still be very unpredictable when to comes to coat type and allergens. An F2bb is multigeneration Bernedoodle bred from an F1bb Bernedoodle and an F1 Bernedoodle. They can possess slightly more poodle genetics but it all depends on breeding and what was crossed. These crossings can be unpredictable when it comes to furnishing and shedding genes. An F3 is a third generation Bernedoodle bred from an F2 to another F2. These are puppies with unpredictable genetics so most often are not bred. It is not recommended to those with allergies to consider an F3 multigenerational doodle. Coat Colors Now that we have learned how genetics play a roll in the coat of your new doodle, we need to understand that genetics also control what color your puppies coat will be. For simplicity sake, we are only going to cover the basics as a dogs genetics have so many different pieces. A dogs color genetics are called a Locus on a genetic test. Basic terms to understand when it comes to color genetics are these: A capital letter means it is a dominant trait, ex. For a Black dog you will have a capitol B = dominant. A lower case letter means it is a recessive trait, example for a black dog you will have a lower case b = recessive. Genetic carrier (Carrier), means that the dog has an inherited recessive trait that it does not display, but can pass on to offspring. Black- Black Colored Dog Chocolate- Brown Colored Dog White, Creme, Apricot or Red- White, Creme, Apricot or Red Colored Dog, but could have either Brown or Black pigmentation. ​ Phantom - Phantom dogs usually have two colors, one base color and small areas/markings of another color. Typically this is Black or Brown with rust/tan. Picture a dobermans coloring and markings. Phantom Bernedoodles have have a base coat of black with brown on all four legs, chest, checks, and eyebrows. Either a Black Dog with Tan/Silver points on face, inner legs, chest and under tail or a Chocolate Dog with Tan points on face, inner legs, chest and under tail. A Phantom dog will have little to NO white markings. Brindle - Brindle is a coat color pattern in a dog. It looks much like a tiger stripping. Brindle colors are either blue based brindle or a red based brindle. Blue based is typically Black with light colored (typically a tan, brown or reddish color) tiger striping over the body. The Red Based is more brown with light colored (sometimes even tan/tiger striping over the body. This can be in varying degrees of light to dark coloring. Brindles can be solid brindle, brindle with the white of the Bernese Mountain Dog , or Brindle abstract. ​ Sable - Sable is a coat color represented by black-tipped hairs on a background of any solid color, with no particular pattern/location designated for such hairs. Sable hair follicles are very unique. Each follicle can often have as many as 3 different colors. Sable Bernedoodles can be fully sable or have the white of the Bernese Mountain Dog. Sables are most typically Brown/Tan & Black. Most often sables will have fading to a lighter tan or silver body, with dark tips only remaining over time. As a puppy you will see the lighter color coming into the coat as the base of the hair. ​ Tri-Color - A tri-color Bernedoodle is a mostly black and white dog with red/rust marking above their eyes, on the sides of their cheeks, sometimes on their legs and bottoms below their tails. Tricolors may or may not have white on the face or may have a limited amount of white. Traditionally, tricolor Bernedoodles look much more like a Bernese Mountain Dog. Tricolors can also have a full white mask. ​ Parti - A Parti Doodle means particular color. It is a dog with a white background and another predominate color. Parti’s can be any color but always have white markings. Parti’s have MORE than 50% white on their coat. ​ Bi-Color/Abstract - A Bicolor dog is described as having two colors. This can include a single coat color (brown, black, red, or blonde) accompanied by white markings on the face, chest, feet, and tail or small white patches on the chest, snout, or toes. This is also known as abstract. Abstract dogs typically have white markings present on the face, chest and/or paws of a dog on 50% or LESS of their bodies. Silvers (or Silver Beige)- A Dog that started out as Black or Brown and faded over time. This usually starts with the tips of hairs or the points becoming silver hair. It can also start in patches and not be all at once. Example-This can be seen a lot with Sheepadoodles and any other dogs with the fading gene. ​ Merle - Also known as a dapple. Merle is irregular blotches of fur set on a lighter background of the same pigment. Solid black on gray (called blue merle) or solid brown on tan (red merle). Blue and partially blue eyes are often seen with the merle pattern, as well. For more information on Merles, please see the merle genetics page.

Mini/Moyen Bernedoodle Breeders About Me About Us We are a family breeder of mini/moyen (medium) sized Bernedoodles ranging from 35-55lbs. (although genetics can be weird and sometimes a puppy can be smaller or larger than predicted. We make no guarantees on sizes.) Our puppies are raised with love in our home. We take great care in raising our puppies to ensure their health and temperaments. (Health and temperament are of the utmost importance to us.) All Parents are health tested and clear of diseases common to these breeds. We prioritize finding the perfect match for each puppy and their new family. They have begun being socialized and exposed to new and different things to reduce fear and anxiety. Our puppies have also started on potty training. Our Breeding program has been vetted and approved to be a part of the Good Dog Program. This is a safe and secure website to protect both the breeder and the buyer as well as make secure payments. ​ All puppies will come with their first shots, dewormed, microchipped and will be looked over by our vet before leaving. We offer a limited 1 year health guarantee.We will be sending home care package with each of our puppies as well. This package includes: * A reusable Whimsy Doodle tote bag. * A binder with all of your paperwork, vet documents and some educational information. * Dew Claws Removed. * First Vet exam. * First set of vaccines. * Dewormed every two weeks. * A fleece blanket. (pre-washed) that has been with your puppy's mom and liter mates for their scent. This helps with the initial transition to your home. *A Microchip. The paperwork to add your information to your puppy's microchip will be inside of your binder. *Two new puppy toys. One is specifically meant for small teething puppy's. The other is a Kong brand stuffed animal made for dogs. Always observe your puppy with any toy. *Poop Bags. One full container of Poop Bags for your trip home. We require a non-refundable deposit to hold your puppy as well as a signed contract before your puppy can go home with you at 8 weeks of age. (We reserve the right to hold puppies longer if it is needed for any reason.) We are dedicated to ensuring that our puppies are placed in loving, responsible homes where they can thrive and bring joy to their new families.

Dealing with Normal Puppy Behavior: Nipping and Rough Play Lets be real, puppies can play rough. It is normal for puppies to use their mouths while playing with their liter mates. This is also how puppies explore their world. Therefore, puppies usually want to bite or "mouth" hands or feet during play or when being pet. This behavior is rarely aggressive and, therefore, not intended to cause harm. Because this is a natural instinct for your puppy, it needs to be trained that it isn’t ok with humans. A proven method is to make a loud noise like a yelp. (I use a loud AHHHH noise). This teaches the puppy that she has bitten to hard and will typically immediately cease the bite. Timing of this is crucial. It must be done the moment the puppy puts its mouth on you in an inappropriate way. The next step is to immediately give your puppy something it CAN bite, like a Kong toy, bone or any other appropriate dog toy. The goals of working with this normal puppy behavior are to redirect your puppy's desire to put something in her mouth, such as an acceptable chew toy, and to teach her that putting her teeth on her skin is never acceptable. Encourage Acceptable Behavior Redirect your puppy's chewing toward acceptable objects by offering her a kong, small bone or other type of dog toy, If you are unsure of what is safe, I suggest speaking with your vet. This needs to be done every time she places her mouth on the skin. You can start by always offering a toy when wanting to pet your puppy. This technique can be especially effective when children want to play with or pet the puppy. As you or the child reach out to scratch her with one hand, offer the chew bone with the other. This will not only help your puppy learn that people and petting are wonderful, but will also keep her mouth busy while she's being petted. Alternate which hand does the petting and which one has the chew bone. At first, you may need to pet or scratch your puppy for short periods of time since the longer she's petted, the more likely she is to get excited and start to nip. Remember that puppies have short attention spans just like children. ​ Discourage Unacceptable Behavior You must also teach your puppy that putting her mouth on your skin is unacceptable for any reason. Nipping should result in unpleasant consequences for her, meaning she will not longer be getting the attention she is seaking. In order to teach your puppy that nipping "turns off" all attention and social interaction with you, you need to react to the nip immediately with the yelp type noise, remove hands from puppy and ignore the puppy completely for a few moments. If she continues to place her teeth on your skin, get up and walk away from the puppy. You may need to have her tethered by a leash while you play so when you leave, she can't follow. After 10-15 seconds, return to your puppy and try the chew toy and petting method again. It will take many repetitions for your puppy to learn and grasp what is expected. NOTE: Never leave your puppy fully unattended while she is tethered as she may get tangled in her leash and injure herself. When you leave the room, stand a good distance away where puppy can not see you but you can see her. The leave the room method is designed to remove attention from the puppy momentarily, not for long periods of time. Remember that these methods will probably be ineffective unless you are consistent with this training. Teaching a puppy desired behaviors is a lot of work. Jumping Up Training your puppy to not jump on you or others when they come over can be a difficult task. There are many different methods out there for this type of training. When your puppy jumps up on you, it wants attention. When you turn your back, push her away, knee her in the chest, or step on her hind toes (which is cruel), you are then giving your puppy what we call negative attention. This becomes a rewarding behavior because your puppy has gotten what it wants attention of any sort. Therefore, the puppy will continue to jump. From your puppy's point of view, negative attention is better than no attention at all. When your puppy jumps up: Fold your arms in front of you, stand still, and ignore the jumping behavior. Continue to ignore her until all four of her paws are on the ground. The moment puppy paws touch the ground, praise and give a treat. At this point use the "sit" command. When your puppy sits, reward with your mark word (good, yes, etc) and another treat. If she jumps up again when you begin to praise her, repeat the process. Its important to have every person she meets follow these same steps. Consistency is key with ALL puppy training. When your puppy realizes that she gets the attention she craves only when she stops jumping on you and sits (if she knows the command), she'll stop jumping up. Remember to always reward the good behavior that you are seeking. Be careful not to ignore her when she comes and sits politely, waiting for your attention. What Not To Do Attempts to tap, slap, or hit your puppy in the face (or anywhere on its body) for nipping or jumping up are guaranteed to backfire. This can cause very negative reactions depending on your puppy's temperament. Your puppy can become "hand shy" and cringe or cower whenever a hand comes toward her face. This can also cause your puppy to become afraid of you. Once your puppy becomes afraid of you, they will start to refuse to come to you or approach you at all. Your puppy could also respond in a defensive manner and attempt to bite you. This would be in pure defense. Likewise, your puppy can also interpret a slight slap as an invitation to play. Which would in turn cause her to become more excited and be even more likely to nip or jump. About Children and Puppies It's very difficult for children, especially younger kids, to practice the types of behavior modifications we discussed. A child’s first reaction to being nipped, mouthed, or jumped up on by a puppy is to use their hands to move the puppy away. They will sometimes hit and other times push the puppy away. This can be interpreted by the puppy as play which in turn causes the puppy to nip, mouth, or jump even more. It can also cause your puppy to become fearful of your child. Always supervise your puppy and children together. Having a puppy also means teaching your children boundaries. It is never ok for your child to pull on a puppies ears, tail or legs. Remember that dogs use body language to let us know how they are feeling. Pay attention to how your dog feels with the interactions they are having as well. It is highly recommended to seek the help of a professional dog trainer to help with desired behaviors. It's also very important to remember to give your dog rules and expectations. We can not have a well behaved dog if we do not take the time to teach them what behaviors we expect of them. Indoor leash training We have already discussed the importance of your puppy learning rules for your home. A simple method to help with this is leash training. Years ago a trainer taught me this trick to help my puppy learn boundaries and rules for inside. Its pretty simple actually. Keep your puppy attached to a leash and attached to you at all times except when he is in the crate. (DO NOT leave the leash on your puppy inside a crate . This can be very dangerous.) This helps the puppy learn what is expected of him. He will observe you very closely and learn easily what you do and do not want. This helps you to be consistent because puppy is right there at all times. Remember corrections have to be doe in real time/immediately. Even waiting for 5 minutes will confuse your puppy. This method also helps your puppy with potty training. A puppy will not go in close range of where they are sitting or laying down. This also gives you the chance to observe your puppy’s body language. By learning this from your puppy, you will know when he needs to go outside, when he wants to play, cuddle, or take a nap. This also encourages a stronger bond with your puppy. Using this method also desensitizes your puppy to the leash. So when it is finally time to start walking your puppy (after all of its shots are complete) it will not have that fear.